ona sadhya

Taste of Onam in Malabar

It's time once again for the sumptuous Onasadya, the rich fare of delectable dishes that enrich your palate.

Each district in Kerala is a culturally unique entity. But surprisingly, the Onasadya all over the State has the same ingredients and flavour. Being so culturally and linguistically distinct, why did not Malabar develop its own way to tease the palates for Onam? Our research was rejuvenated by the revelations of Menoth Ramakrishnan Nair, an elderly poet who writes under the pseudonym ‘Ravanaprabhu.'

Mr. Nair recollected Onam during his childhood and the distinct flavour of the curries made of vegetables and spices. Once the Onasadya was done with, the remaining curries and rice were poured into one barrel and kept closed for four days. On the fifth day, the barrel was opened and the contents were properly mixed and served. Before you say ‘yuk!,' people normally eat a lot during Onasadya and many develop stomach ailments. This mixture, served on the fifth day, known as ‘pulunkari kanji,' is the best medicine for stomach ailments.

A very important constituent of Onasadya in Malabar, unlike the rest of Kerala, is ‘Pazham nurukku,' which is plantain fruits steamed and sliced. Another is ‘pala ada' or ‘poovada.' prepared as an offering to ‘Onathappan' on Thiruvonam day. This is made by steaming rice paste filled with grated coconut and jaggery inside the stalk of Areca leaves. A variation of ‘inchikkari' known as ‘mulakapachadi' is typical of Malabar. This does not have the major ingredient of the former, ginger. Instead, green chillies, mustard, methi and theel powdered and mixed in tamarind juice to form ‘mulakapachadi.'‘Narangakkari,' ‘inchithairu' and ‘mangakkari' are also typically ‘Malabarish,' Mr. Nair says.

Sumesh, a prominent restaurant owner in Kozhikode, added a small but unique item to the list of Malabar special Onam delicacies. The main ingredient of this yet-to-be-named delicacy used in Thalassery and its surrounding areas is a banana known as ‘aanippoovan'. The fruit is mixed with sugar and ghee to form a thick paste. It is further mixed with ‘pappadam' and served as a pre-meal dessert, thus carrying the flavour throughout the meal.

According to Sumesh, unlike in South Kerala, in Malabar, there is no surprise element if non-vegetarian dishes are served at the Onasadya.

In fact, chicken curry in various forms is an indispensable part of Onasadya here in many parts of Malabar, he said.